Published:
Wed Nov 11, 2009
When the prospect of snagging a table at one of the world’s hottest restaurants seems a little challenging, get creative. Here are just a few of ASMALLMAGAZINE's favourite hotspots and our tips for getting in.
The Fat Duck
Bebel’s Ristorante
Via San Marco, 38, Milan, Lombardy, 20121
Phone: +39 02 657 1658To sum up Bebel’s and its clientele, two words: in fashion. Beloved by the couture elite, restaurateur Sergio Sorini draws a preternaturally well-dressed, high-profile fan base to his restaurant, which features multi-regional Italian cuisine in an Art-Nouveau-inflected interior. Pizza gets a nod, but it’s the in-house grill (especially the whole fish of the day) that steals the show.
To reserve: The good news is that Bebel’s is not listed in tour guides, which means you’re not competing with out-of-towners for a chair. Bad news: The regulars are not only loyal, but they’re also not to be trifled with. Code Red: FASHION WEEK!
When in Milan…: Have your ‘assistant’ book two weeks in advance for a non-market-week meal; a month in advance for show season supping.
Le Comptoir at Hôtel Relais Saint-Germain
9, Carrefour de l’Odéon, Paris
Phone: +33 (0)1 44 22 07 97
Fax: +33 (0)1 46 33 45 30At Chef Yves Camdeborde’s
Comptoir (counter), international foodies rub elbows with devoted locals. Style-wise? Casual and unassuming. Plate-wise? Loosen your belts and don’t bring a dieter or vegetarian. If boudin is on the menu, order it (it’s a recipe passed down from Camdeborde’s
père, who cooked at the Ritz).
To reserve: Unless you’re a personal friend of the chef’s, call at least six months ahead (some book a year in advance).
Shortcuts: Get a room at the adjoining hotel – guests are never refused a seat. You can also do a ‘Hail Mary’ 7.30pm call-up and see if there are any last-minute cancellations. Or, go during the first-come-first-served windows (no reservation zone) on a weekday afternoon or during the weekend—just be prepared to wait.

Tetsuya’s
El BulliCala Montjoi , Ap. 30 17480, Roses, Girona
Phone: +34 972 15 04 57bulli@elbulli.comwww.elbulli.com For culinary enthusiasts who consider molecular gastronomy a religion, Chef Ferran Adrià is a messiah. Adrià is credited with putting foam (and the small town of Roses, Spain) on the map. And although it might sound like a case of
The Emperor’s New Clothes, people make pilgrimages from far and wide to taste dishes garnished with ‘Cordoba air’. The menu changes constantly based on what the mad scientist is destabilizing in the laboratory.
To reserve: Visit the ‘Reservations’ department on the restaurant’s site and you’ll read that, “The restaurant is fully booked for our season 2009… but we will be at your disposal to revise if cancellations are produced…” Meaning? Keep your jet at the ready during ‘the season’ (April to September) and call or e-mail each day to check for cancellations. To secure a slot in 2010, launch a heavy contact campaign the second week in October—and that means you're already late.

El Bulli
The Fat Duck
High Street, Bray, Berkshire
Phone:+ 44 0162 858 0333www.fatduck.co.ukHeston Blumenthal is the chef that true food nerds tout as the founding father of hi-tech cookery. And although it is removed from London, there are plenty of savvy diners willing to make the journey to Blumenthal’s base. If you're wondering if you should go, the list of awards the restaurant has garnered since it opened in 2001 should be reason enough. If you do make it there, sign up for the tasting menu and regale your friends with anecdotes about pommery grain mustard ice-cream and parsnip cereal.
To reserve: Call TWO months (as opposed to the standard one) before the desired date and do it first thing in the morning, Berkshire time. But be warned, a cancellation without sufficient notice can result in a £100 penalty per person! The Fat Duck website has a comprehensive list of times the reservation department is taking calls.
French Laundry
6640 Washington Street, Yountville, California
Phone: +11 707 944 2380Jackets (and reservations) are required for both lunch and dinner at Chef Thomas Keller’s flagship boîte. He introduces haute French culinary practices to Napa Valley’s easy-going luxury and regional ingredients. The menu changes daily, depending on what’s freshest. And when you’re biting into your foie gras terrine paired with poached rhubarb, you’ll be satisfied that the effort to land your seat paid off.
To reserve: The bookings office is open from 10am to 6.30pm (PST) and starts taking requests two months in advance with a credit card guarantee only.
Tip: You might have a better shot asking for a lunch spot (Fri – Sun, 11am to 1pm). Also, allegedly, two tables are available online at OpenTable.com. Remember to confirm 72 hours before you dine. Or, the reservations office does take bookings up to a year in advance. Talk about planning ahead.

Noma
Noma
Strandgade 93, 1401 Copenhagen
Phone: +45 3296 3297 www.noma.dkIt’s not that Noma hasn’t been getting heaps of praise since it opened in 2003 (most recently being nominated the 3rd best restaurant in the world in April 2009 by English magazine
Restaurant) , it’s that the world’s gone mad for all things Nordic. That’s why it’s so hard to get yourself on the books for some grub. Apropos of this list, the chef, René Redzepi, trained at both El Bulli and French Laundry before hitting a few of Copenhagen’s most illustrious kitchens. His goal: To create a new Nordic cuisine that fuses age-old methods of curing, smoking, salting, pickling and distilling with indigenous, just-picked or -fished ingredients and up-to-the-minute techniques. An example: King crab and ashes served with mussel stock and leek. Don’t turn up your nose! Nettles, woodsorrel and juniper are all the rage; didn’t you get the memo?
To Reserve: The website makes it seem as easy as woodruff pie, but don’t be mislead. Book at least a month in advance via phone or website.
One Clique Away: The website lists a special e-mail address for group parties (
booking@noma.dk), meaning 6 or more, and the fact that “Emails will be read and answered every day, except Sundays” is mentioned suggests that coming en masse will improve your chances. (Perhaps an ‘accidental’ e-mail to that address for a two-person rendez-vous will help you get your wish; just don’t try that more than once.)
Tetsuya’s Restaurant
529 Kent Street, Sydney
Phone: +61 2 9267 2900Heralding from Japan, Tetsuya Wakuda has not only become one of Australia’s most acclaimed chefs but holds rank amongst the world’s greats. His super sophisticated cooking style emphasizes purity of flavor and doesn’t rely on bizarre machinery or chemical manipulation (case in point, his signature dish: ‘confit of ocean trout served with unpasteurised ocean trout roe’). No à la carte here, folks; instead, a pre-set 10-course menu of Tetsuya’s choosing.
To Reserve: Download a reservation form from Tetsuya’s website or call. There’s no prescribed deadline, but common sense would have you give two months’ notice.
Plan B: Have a posse? The restaurant boasts three private dining rooms for larger groups, so when it comes to trying to snag a table, there may be safety in numbers.
Waverly Inn
16 Bank Street, New York, New York
Phone: +11 212 243 7900Back in the day, Graydon Carter, editor-in-chief of
Vanity Fair, and his partners-in-crime dreamt of having a clubhouse: a ‘Cheers’ for the young and hip literati and glitterati. Carter’s dream is a reality in the form of this exclusive watering hole in New York’s West Village. And even though the concept may offend your democratic sensibilities, once you’ve had a taste of the Waverly life, you’re going to have to face a hard truth: it’s pretty great.
To reserve: Bottom line: it’s more like a members-only club than a restaurant. You’ll need to be a celebrity and/or an F.O.G. (Friend of Graydon); either way, the more you dine there, the better your chances of attaining ‘regular’ status.
Tip: Roll in late in the day (before dinner service starts) to ‘check things out’ and befriend the gatekeepers. You can ask them to save you a place in the dining room for the following evening; or, become a barfly and establish a presence.
Tables worth waiting (in line) for
The following do not take reservations:
Momofuku Ssam Bar, New York City
(reservations are taken for parties of 6 to 10)
www.momofuku.com
Pepe’s Pizzeria, New Haven, Connecticut
(For those in New York, you don't have to travel that far. There is now a Pepe's Pizzeria location in Yonkers that just opened this month.)
www.pepespizzeria.com
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Paris
(Reservations are available for the first lunch service and the 6.30 dinner slot.)
www.robuchon.com
Barrafina, London
www.barrafina.co.uk
Joe’s Stone Crab, Miami
www.joesstonecrab.com
Father’s Office, Santa Monica
www.fathersoffice.comSource: